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Unilock Kitchen Remodeling Nationwide

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A galley kitchen opened up to the dining room with a new peninsula
A stone counter, tile backsplash and open shelf after a kitchen remodel
New painted shaker cabinets with an organized deep drawer
A small remodeled galley kitchen with cabinets to the ceiling
A garage converted into a guest room and home office
A remodeled hall bathroom with patterned floor tile and painted walls
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Unilock Kitchen Remodeling: The Woodland Hills Owner’s Guide

A full Unilock kitchen remodel in Woodland Hills typically runs between $14,000 and $45,000 installed, depending on the size of the kitchen, the Unilock product line you’re working with, and how much structural work sits behind the walls. We stock Unilock-compatible materials and install them with a written price before any work starts. Most owners discover they need this page when a Unilock surface, edge, or underlayment has failed in a way that a simple patch won’t fix – a paver-style floor has shifted, a counter edge has chipped past the point of repair, or the substrate underneath has given way after years of heat and dry air. We’ll walk you through what you’re actually looking at.

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Here’s the short version: if your Unilock product is still structurally sound, you may be looking at a targeted repair rather than a full remodel. If it isn’t, you need honest numbers and a crew you can recognize at the door. That’s what this page is for.

Which Unilock Models This Applies To

A walk-in pantry with wood shelving

Unilock is best known for hardscaping – pavers, retaining walls, outdoor living surfaces – but homeowners in Woodland Hills increasingly use Unilock products indoors, particularly in kitchens with indoor-outdoor flow. The most common applications we see are Unilock paver floors in kitchens that open to a patio, Unilock stone veneer on kitchen islands or accent walls, and Unilock coping used as a countertop edge detail.

The compatibility gotcha most owners run into is this: Unilock’s indoor-rated products are not the same thickness as their outdoor pavers. Outdoor pavers typically run 60mm to 80mm thick. Indoor-rated Unilock veneers and floor tiles run 12mm to 30mm. If someone installed outdoor-grade Unilock pavers indoors, the added height creates threshold problems and uneven floor transitions – and that’s a failure you’ll feel every time you walk into the kitchen. Before ordering any replacement part, check the back of a loose piece or the original invoice for the series name (Mattoni, Richcliff, Thornbury, Courtstone, or similar). If you can’t find it, measure the thickness in millimeters and photograph the face pattern – we’ll match it from there.

On the OEM versus aftermarket question for Unilock specifically: Unilock’s proprietary color blends and edge profiles are hard to replicate exactly, so for visible surfaces we recommend original Unilock material whenever it’s still in production. For hidden components – setting beds, underlayment, edge restraints, drainage layers – quality aftermarket equivalents perform as well and often cost 30 to 40 percent less. We’ll tell you which is which on a case-by-case basis, and we’ll put it in writing before you spend a dollar.

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Styles & brands we work with

Kitchen remodeling
Kitchen remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Home additions & ADU
Home additions & ADU
Roofing
Roofing
Windows & doors
Windows & doors
Driveway & pavers
Driveway & pavers
Fence
Fence

Signs Your Unilock Kitchen Remodeling Is Failing

  • Visible lippage between tiles or pavers. One edge sits higher than its neighbor by more than 1/16 inch. This usually means the setting bed underneath has eroded or compacted unevenly – common in Woodland Hills homes where decades of dry-summer soil movement shifts the subfloor. The surface didn’t fail; the base did.
  • Hairline cracks running across multiple pieces in a line. A single cracked tile is a fluke. A crack line that tracks across three or more pieces means the substrate is flexing. In kitchens, we often trace this to a joist that’s been notched for plumbing, or a slab seam that’s opening up. Replacing the surface without fixing the flex guarantees the same crack returns within a year.
  • Hollow sound when you tap the surface. A solid thud is good. A hollow knock means the piece has debonded from its setting bed. In Woodland Hills, this can happen when indoor heat and air conditioning cycles cause the adhesive to dry out faster than it should have during installation. Once debonded, the piece will eventually crack under foot traffic.
  • Edge chipping or spalling on countertop edges or island corners. Unilock’s concrete-based products are dense, but a sharp impact – a cast iron pan, a dropped pot – can take a chunk out of an unsealed edge. If the chip exposes aggregate and the edge keeps crumbling with light pressure, the piece is compromised, not just cosmetically damaged.
  • Staining that won’t come out even after cleaning and resealing. Unilock products are porous unless sealed correctly. If oil, wine, or coffee has penetrated deep into the surface, no amount of scrubbing pulls it out. This is a sealing failure, and the fix is either a professional grind-and-reseal or a full piece replacement depending on how deep the stain runs.
Before & after

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Recent Project
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Full Restoration
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Complete Upgrade

Replacement Cost & What’s Included

A remodeled kitchen with a waterfall island and wood cabinets

In Woodland Hills, here’s what we see in the field:

  • Full kitchen remodel with Unilock flooring, veneer, or coping: $14,000 – $45,000
  • Small kitchen remodel with Unilock surfaces: $9,000 – $20,000
  • Countertop installation (Unilock-compatible or stone): $2,000 – $6,500
  • Backsplash installation: $800 – $2,500
  • Kitchen island installation or refacing: $3,000 – $10,000

The spread comes down to three things: how much of the existing surface has to come out, what’s underneath it once we open things up, and whether the Unilock pieces you need are current production or discontinued. Discontinued series can sometimes be sourced through our material partners, but the price per piece goes up.

Every quote includes the parts, the labor to remove and dispose of the old material, the setting bed or substrate repair, the new Unilock installation, and cleanup. You’ll get a written price before any work starts – not a verbal range that grows on the final bill. The work is covered by our 365-Day Done Right Promise: if something isn’t right within one year of the completion date, we make it right at no cost to you. The terms are stated plainly in the written guarantee you get with the quote.

DIY or Call Us?

There are a couple of things you can safely check yourself. Look at the thickness of any loose piece to determine whether it’s indoor-rated or outdoor-grade. Check whether cracks run in a line across multiple pieces or stop at one. And check whether the surface sounds hollow when tapped. Those three observations will tell you a lot before you call anyone.

What you shouldn’t do is pull up a section of Unilock flooring yourself to “see what’s underneath.” If the substrate is failing, you’ll expose a larger area than you expected, and you may disturb material that contains silica dust – which you don’t want to breathe or track through the house. Cutting Unilock products also requires a wet saw with a diamond blade; dry-cutting releases the same dust and produces rough edges that won’t seat correctly. This is one of those jobs where the savings from doing it yourself evaporate the first time a piece doesn’t fit and you’re stuck with a gap in the floor.

As Isaac Pruett puts it: tell me what you need done. I’ll tell you what it takes and what it costs. Then we get to work. Call (831) 290-6866 and we’ll walk through what you’re seeing.

FAQs

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